As a conductor from Houston who often works in Europe, and as the occasional food critic, I am frequently asked by friends what restaurants I would recommend in some of Europe’s great cities. Though such a subject could be a book in itself, I was very happy when ArtsHouston asked me to share some of my best-kept secrets for its summer issue. It just so happens that most of the restaurants that the artists and patrons of the arts go to are one and the same, despite the appeal of more bohemian bistros and brasseries. But let’s say you’ve just been to the Orchestre de Paris or you’ve heard a concert by Sinfonietta Cracovia in Krakow or you’ve seen the Opera or Ballet in Hamburg- and you’re hungry. The artists who just performed are in the same situation, looking for something good to eat. These special places are where you might find both Pierre Boulez and Christoph Eschenbach eating with some of Paris’ great society. Or enjoy Peter Brook reciting a Shakespearian Sonnet in an Italian restaurant with the cast of his show and the patrons who sponsored them. You might even see a Princess or two mingling among the backstage doors of soloists and sauntering off to a secluded chateau. So, if you should go to Paris, Krakow, Hamburg, read on and enjoy but remember- a secret is best when it is kept.
In Paris, one can only give the most recent places, because they change so often, or they are so good you go back again and again. On the right bank, forget Taillevent or Ducasse, even if you can get a reservation. Laserre is one of those fantastic dining events, with multiple courses and presentation and service at the highest level. But what makes this place so wonderful and the talk of town is the retractable roof that opens to reveal a culinary Garden of Eden. Leave it to Paris to make cuisine their sport stadium. Where these Paris ladies lunch is what was expected of this place. To see Madame Chirac, Henry Kissinger, Pierre Boulez and Jean Marie Messier dine here was not. It was fascinating to see how the dining and the deals are synthesized into French culture. Never a lets-do-lunch city, the more gourmet, the better. For the Italian gourmet with French presentation, there is Carpaccio in the Hotel Royal Monceau, with a maliciously delicious risotto and gorgonzola dabbed with 50 year old Balsamico di Modena. Finally, still on the right bank, there’s L’Avenue on Avenue Montaigne or Georges on the roof of the Pompidou Center. The food is stylish as is its clientele, leaning towards the theatrical. Models, stars, it begins to get routine in some of these places. But, it is, after all, Paris.
Krakow is a non stop flight from Paris and one of those gems of cities all Americans should know about. Why? It is still thankfully perfectly preserved in its Medieval and Renaissance origins, and there are two things Krakow has that no one else has. The Lady with the Hermine, by Leonardo da Vinci, and Sinfonietta Cracovia, a world class chamber orchestra I have the privilege to conduct. What Krakow also has is some of the best French and Italian food outside of Paris and Rome. Why? To know its history is to discover that not only were the Italian Renaissance architects the designers of the great Wawel (pronounced Vavel) Castle, hence the Florentine resemblance, but also that King Stanislas in the 18th Cetnury married the daughter of Louis XV, thus becoming the Duc du Nancy de Lorraine. So with France and Italy deep in its heritage, its no wonder that Amarone, in the Hotel Pod Rozu, with its perfect rabbit ravioli and melt in your mouth homemade tiramisu, and Restaurant Cyrano de Bergerac, the award winning five course Haute Gourmand restaurant in the grand medieval cellar of the restaurant have both become the best and most delicious of choices . And besides after a performance, who wants to eat Borscht? Or maybe you’d rather enjoy an after concert drink on the rooftop of Hotel Copernicus or in Mezzanine, Krakow’s hottest lounge. Whatever you think about Houston nightlife, Krakow has it beat. With two hundred churches and three hundred clubs and a restaurant or two in between, there’s a dynamic in Krakow that’s sinfully righteous.
Finally, since were on the subject of Italian food, most food lovers would agree that when all else fails in a foreign country, it’s either Gyros at 3 am or Italian food. I prefer the latter. So rather than give you a glossary of where to get the best Italian food outside of Italy, let me just add that aside from Paris and Krakow, the Ristorante l’Osterie Due in Hamburg is by far one of the most Italian of restaurants not in Italy itself. It is of course, Italian, both in kitchen and owner, but here with an ox meat (Kalbschwanz) ravioli, tuna encrusted with italian herbs, a perfect dover sole, another carpaccio this time with pine nuts and a horseradish sauce, and a venison grilled a la compagna? Indeed, in Hamburg. And there you hear among the din of late night conversation from Princess Ingeborg of Schleswig Holstein with the Cultural Senator Heidi Simonis sharing pasta with Peter Mussbach of the Berlin StadtOper. Sometimes even the fly on the wall gets to enjoy a bottle of Ornellaia 97.
Sure you can get the Italian food you want in Italy, but Ill save that for another article. But if Paris, Krakow and Hamburg are on your itinerary this summer or at any time, then keep these secrets between us. Maybe you’ll run into some interesting people. After your adventures, write to ArtsHouston and let us know what you discovered.
In 1996 I had the great fortune to study conducting with the legendary Ilya Musin at the St. Petersburg Conservatory. Back then, Russia was like the Wild West, and though free market economy was a relatively new idea, there were businesses that took advantage of their newfound opportunity while still maintaining their Russian heritage. The 1913 restaurant, a decidedly old world establishment, was one of them. Nestled near the Marinsky Theater, it was then, and continues today, to be the place to eat Authentic Pre-Revolution Russian Cuisine. So, when I returned to St. Petersburg this month to conduct my orchestra from Poland, Sinfonietta Cracovia, at the famous White Nights Festival, in celebration of St. Petersburg’s 300th anniversary, I could not wait to go back to the restaurant where I had my first real caviar and Chicken Kiev. Only this time, I wasn’t on a student’s budget.Instead, with White Nights Festival Artistic Director Valery Gergiev, former Houston Symphony Music Director Christoph Eschenbach, who played the Mozart concert #23 for our concert, and a host of political and business dignitaries, I was able to sample much more than I ever could before while soaking it all down with vodka.
The interior is pleasant, nothing like the Russian Tea Room splendour as one would imagine: Modern tables are scattered throughout, simple Russian art adorns the walls, and a trio of violin, guitar and singer entertain the guests with everything from tangos to polkas. The service is good, but they still are adapting to Western ideas of customer service. Clearly, the real attraction is the food itself. No complicated titles here; it is exactly what the menu says. Blinis Tsar Style with caviar, saturated trout with dill butter under tomatoes, meatballs Russian style in a sauce of cream and pepper are all quite basic but quite good. Some special Russian recipes like Draniki, grated potato fritters with mushrooms and bacon; Zapekanka, golden potatoes with meat; salmon drenched in cucumber Romanov style; Pelemeni, real Siberian ravioli with meat are for real eaters and spare no calories. The delicious and thick Hare’s chop with sauce of beetroot and the Basturma (saddle) of Venison can conjure up images of Tsar Peter the Great on hunt. Gratinated Russian Pike Perch with Potatoes tastes fresh from the river Neva and the Beef Stroganoff is a classic. But I had to save room for my old favourite Chicken Kiev, delicately battered with sauce dripping from the inside with a simple slice of the knife. It was even better than I remembered.
Back in the days of the French Revolution, much of France’s wine and champagne made their way to Russia. Madame Clicquot found a ready public in the Russian aristocracy as did fine Bordeaux. The wine list at 1913 reflects that Franco-Phile past, with a complete list of Margaux, Latour, Pauillac and Saint Emilion to be found. Our 1990 St. Julien Chateau Talbot was the perfect tannic compliment to all this meat and potatoes. And of course, cold vodka and caviar was both aperitif and dessert.
St. Petersburg is making lots of headlines because of its anniversary and during these summer months, the sky is white even until early in the morning. What perfect way to celebrate this cities birthday than to while away the evening hours in one of its greatest institutions. Indeed, the White Nights can sometimes play tricks on your eyes. While others may be strolling along the river, visiting St. Issac’s Cathedral or the Hermitage Museum, the real Russia can found at number 2/13 Dekabristov, and you just might find old Peter and his Ramonov gang still hanging out, shooting a few shots with Anastasia and Rasputin and wishing the old days were still around. After my meal, I did.
